Different types of wood cutting of portable table saws

Currently, the table saw has become the most common tool used in carpentry workshops. Because of outstanding features such as easy cutting wood, no effort, and manpower. And it has increasingly replaced for manual saws like hand saws, circular saws, …

However, it has been observed that many people when buying saws do not know all about its superior mechanism or technique such as being able to cut multiple corners as required, desired by users. Therefore, in this article, I will give some typical technical tips about professional wood cutting types to support you to learn and gain more benefits in the use of the best portable table saw

  • Typical cutting styles

Currently, there are various types of cutting such as dado cuts, bevel cuts, rips cuts, miter cuts, … All of them make the worker’s work easier and faster. Let’s start to understand what types of ideas are.

Rip cuts

A rip cut is the simplest and most common type of table saw. Users formed in parallel with the grain and can divide the log in a straight line. If you are a beginner in learning how to use a table saw, I think you should practice using portable saws like a circular saw. Practice how to cut straight logs. Because when you get used to the pressure of hand-sawing, you’ll use table saws more easily.

To cut a log straight by a portable table saw, adjust the blade carefully on the surface of the wood to be cut. Be sure to use it correctly so that there is no problem of kicking back when operating. Next, you need to adjust the width of the fence and loosen or tighten the rail so you can move the log to the right to left to adjust the accuracy of the cutting position when sawing.

During the cutting process, you have to hold the wood tightly and use the stick to push the wood to protect your hand and possibly more precisely.

Beveled cut

Before you create a bevel, Find out about the system on the saw table. Some machines are tilting to the right, the others tilt to the left. Therefore, when making you must pay attention to the tilt of the saw to manipulate the most accurately. For example, the table is tilted to the left 40 degrees, you should place the saw on the right-hand side to cut the oblique angle most excellently. Just like the straight cut, you need to keep and place the saw according to your angle so you can cut the most perfect log. This type of cutting you need to be patient to create the desired bevels.

Crosscut

The cross-cut is a combination of straight cutting and horizontal cutting. Straight-cut work is extremely simple for most people, but with cross-cutting, not everyone can do. 

 You initial reach the saw a little distance from the wooden board. Then use a ruler to mark the horizontal line on the wooden board (use a 90-degree protractor to get the best cut). After that, you have to make sure your hand has enough strength to keep the fence cut to have the perfect cut.

Dado cuts

Dado cut is a type of specialized cutting for furniture manufacture that allows workers to create a joint to connect two or more pieces of wood. You need to use a dedicated blade. Therefore, it is wise to choose a table saw with a saw blade to cut this type.

Miter cuts

The last type of cut I want to show you is the miter cut. You can cut multiple materials with different angles from 45 degrees to 90 degrees, … to create a joint that is mounted at a 90-degree angle. For example, you cut two logs with 45 degrees. Then you link, join the two logs together to create a 90-degree angle. You can see this cut on the edges of the door or furniture. Miter cuts are also used to create boxes, creating frame structures. You also need to add tools to measure the angle to achieve the most accurate cut

In conclusion

I have introduced some of the most popular cutting styles available today. Therefore, depending on the workmanship or the stage you have to perform, Let’s study and learn the above cut styles to improve your cutting skills right away.

Common problems when using a soil moisture meter

A soil moisture meter is one of the best moisture meters. It becomes an indispensable tool for growing crops to help determine soil moisture, pH, alum… to take better measures to improve and restore the soil, to help the plant grow best.

However, in the process of using a soil moisture meter. You may encounter some errors that you don’t know how to solve. Understand that, In this article, I will show some common problems when using this type of meter and how to solve it for you. Let’s explore.

Some common problems with soil moisture meters

You may encounter problems during the use of meters as unavoidable, people should not be too worried if unfortunately encountered. Please apply appropriate measures immediately so that the device is not broken and can be used normally for the next time.

Case 1: The metal ring on the locomotive is loose or peeled off

Cause: During using. Some customers encounter a metal ring problem (the one that plugs into the ground) is loose and flaky. The main reason leading to this problem is mostly due to improper use when you plug the device to the ground you turn it counterclockwise.

Treatment: To solve this problem, make sure to tighten the upper body and rotate each metal ring. Proceed in the order from the largest round to the next round and the pointed end clockwise and finally swirled it tightly.

Case 2: Button to measure the moisture of the machine stuck with soil and sand

Cause: Because after using, you forget to clean the machine so the soil or sand was sticky in the machine This causes the button to measure the moisture stuck

Treatment: How to solve this problem is very simple, you just need to use the brush and cleaning around the measuring button and press the button several times until the dust is out.

Case 3: Button to measure does not work

How to handle: use RP7 spray on the inside of the button, press several times and let in about 10 to 12 hours will overcome.

Case 4: The clock does not spin or rotate continuously and not stop

How to handle: There are many people when using a soil moisture meter that meets the clock spinning continuously not stop or the clock does not turn, Please overcome by :

Remove the 3 metal rings and proceed to clean, if you see the moisture meter is oxidized, use sandpaper to scrub until the oxidation disappears. For the case that the clock does not rotate due to a strong impact (falling) or other reasons, check the inner wire immediately because it may be loose. You can fix it yourself or bring it to where you bought it for warranty and repair.

Case 5: The clock of the machine measures below 3

How to handle: If the clock measured humidity below 3 after plugging the device into the ground, the farmer pulls out and tries to measure it at different points. If you see the clock of the pH return to the normal index. Prove that where everyone plugs into the ground has an index smaller than 3. The soil is too acidic. Need to overcome and improve immediately.

Besides, if when you press the white button to measure the moisture, the clock runs towards the left, index below 3. The cause of this situation may be due to the soil being too moist or high humidity> 80%. People can carry out cross-checking by using meters in other areas with drier soil. If observed and found that the moisture is only 4-5 or 6, it means that the moisture value is between 40-50 and 60%, the machine is working normally. On the other hand, if it stays below 3, it means that the device has been damaged.

Case 6: Forget the device in the garden or leave the device in the rain:

 If you accidentally forget your device in the garden, causing the machine to get wet due to rain, quickly bring it into the house, clean, check whether the water is inside the watch face for timely cleaning.

In conclusion

I have presented some common problems when using a soil moisture meter today. If you encounter one of the above situations, try to deal with the problem with the measures I showed above.

How To Pick The Best Wood Clamp?

Clamps for woodworking is essential. Apart from holding wood pieces together in place, they are also useful for a variety of things. But every woodworker knows that there is no one clamp which works for every project. The wood clamp which you need depends on the task you are trying to get done. Here are some woodworking jobs and the clamps which would be considered best for that job:

Edge Gluing the Panels

A pipe or bar clamp is best for the work of edge gluing the panels. These clamps come with a pipe or bar which gives enough length, which spans through the whole width of the glue up. The pipe or bar also gives enough support for the panels in use. You can get these clamps in various types like:

  • Aluminum bar clamps: These are lightweight, which makes them way easier to handle apart from providing a wide and stable base.
  • Pipe Clamps: These are definitely an economical option if you can put some work in to modify each one so that they can reach a variety of lengths. These kinds of clamps are sold as one solid set of jaws. It is after this that you will have to purchase the length of pipe which you need to thread up to the jaws.

Face Gluing

If your job is to face glue parts or to make a table leg, then turning a bend or blank lamination an F- Style clamp is your best option. F style clamps are available for a lot of different jaw lengths. These work to further move away from the point where force is exerted right from the edge of the workpiece. Also, if are facing difficulty with gripping the clamp panels, then F style pistons will work great in that scenario. This is because it has a handle which swivels around 90 degrees which makes it easier to get a grip on and also creates more leverage.

Edge Banding Attaching

When it comes to putting solid wood edging right on to a panel then bandy clamps are the things which you need for your job. Band clamps are basically spring clamps which come with huge grip-able clamp pads. These won’t slip and touch the rubber band which stretches all across between the powerful jaws.

Assembling Cabinets

When it comes to assembling cabinet boxes or some face frames then parallel clamps are the ones which will surely get the work done. Parallel jaw clamps come with a pair of jaws which stay parallel and thus are able to distribute the pressure evenly all across the surface of the clamps jaw. Another major thing to take into consideration while making the cabinet boxes is that you will need to keep the parts perpendicular. In such cases, assembly clamps and squares will be most useful. An assembly square has a jig which is right-angled and this allows one to clamp up the corner of two joint pieces so as to hold them in a perpendicular position.

Jig and Work Pieces

Many a times workers will have to secure jigs or parts right onto a workbench, directly to some workpiece or perhaps onto a tool surface as well. For this purpose Pistol, quick grip clamps are most useful. This is because they are easy to remove, attach and hold the work securely.

Things to keep in mind when selecting Clamps

  • Know that there are lots of F clamps which are made out of plastic. But always look for the more flexible and softer plastic rather than the hard brittle ones. The right kind of plastic will easily last for years.
  • Metal parts won’t tolerate poundings so they don’t have to contain hardness which resembles that of a chisel. But make sure that you do look for cracks and more which might have slipped through quality control checks.
  • When buying the hand screw clamps make sure that the wooden parts be made out of hardwood, for example- maple or oak.
  • You will find that clamp handles are made up of wood, metal or plastic and all of it can last well for years. Make sure to check the wooden handles for cracks when it comes to buying them.

Make sure that you first and foremost consider the job for which you need the clamp for and not clamp you would like to have. This will help you get the perfect clamp.

Diy Bow Tie

Last week, I was in full Halloween-costume-making-mode (you can see our get-ups here and here).  One of the simplest pieces I created was a bow tie.

Initially, I thought it would only be good for a one-time-wear, but turns out it will be sticking around for a while.  This is perfect for costumes, photo shoots, or just sporting for the day!

Here’s how:

Time: 15 minutes

Supplies:

  • 1 Sheet of felt
  • Sharpie
  • Scissors
  • Hot glue gun (and glue sticks)
  • Elastic
  • Sew on snap fasteners
  • Needle & thread (optional)

Instructions:

Fold the piece of felt in half.  With the Sharpie, draw an outline of a bow tie and cut. (Doubling the felt makes for a sturdier tie and 3 dimensional look).

Cut an additional piece of felt (about 1/2 inch x 2 inches) to wrap around the middle section of the tie.

Measure and cut the piece of elastic.  Lay the bow tie flat (face-down) with the felt strip and elastic (as shown in picture).  Glue the elastic to the tie.  Fold the middle strip and glue to secure in place.

Use sew on snap fasteners on the ends of the elastic for easy snap-on wear and removal. Either sew or hot glue!

Now, create them in as many colors as you want!  And don’t worry if your little gets one dirty, they’re so easy (and cheap) to make and replace!

The Gallery Wall

Hi friends!  I’m so excited to share this with you today!  We’ve been working on filling the front room, making it a purposeful space, and it’s finally getting there! So many exclamation points!

This is what the wall looked like a week ago:

I gathered some frames and shelves and laid them on the floor to figure out which design pattern worked best. I tried this:

And this:

And settled on this:

Then, using this method, I put the frames up one by one.

Ta-da!  I wish it wasn’t so gloomy outside so I could take a brighter, happier picture.  But, I was excited to show you and didn’t want to wait any longer!

We used this mount from Best Buy for the guitar.

Every time I walk in the front door, or down the stairs, I smile at this room.  It’s nice to have another space to use and play in.  Doesn’t hurt that it’s pretty!

This & That & The Front Room

My parents arrived (from Florida) last night and we’ve had a fun day enjoying each other.  The baby entertained us this morning; playing with cars, scarfing down my donut, and running around babbling. Telling Grandma & Gramps everything he could think of, I’m sure.  I guess he’s not so much a baby anymore.

Later, I convinced everyone in joining my adventure to Lowes, stocking up on crafts and project goodies. There’s always a project going on when my parent’s are here.  So thankful for their willingness to help!

We got:

  • 2 lamp kits to rewire these second hand lamps
  • 5 wooden dowels for a special project for the front room (stay tuned!)
  • a coffee maker (because we’ve never owned one and our guests will be much happier now that we do)

We picked up some other little odds and ends, and still need to make a special trip to the fabric store.  I can’t wait to show you the finished projects!

Speaking of the front room, it’s slowly filling up and no longer completely empty (like it has been for almost 2 years!).

(Is it considered photo-bombing if the sweet thang is napping and I didn’t want to wake him?)

There’s not much cohesiveness as of yet.  I just threw some of our colorful pillows on the couch for now until I decide on a more permanent color scheme.  The walls are still bare.  I’m thinking of painting a super large watercolor for above the couch, something abstract or geometric.

But, even still, I’m loving the pieces (and the fact that the room is a functional space now).

The jute rug is Ikea and this mid-century coffee table was a thrift store find!

I’m also working on a craft corner/ work space on the other side of the room.  I bought this desk from Ikea and I love the drafting board look.  Once I can talk my husband into it, we’ll put up some shelving.  It’s going to be an inspiring space!  More on all that later.  For now, back to the parent-helping projects while baby sleeps.

Anthro Knockoff Coiled Pot

There’s nothing like a quiet house, the fireplace roaring, all snuggled up in a blanket watching your favorite TV series.  This is how our nights have looked the past few days.  With the addition of one thing: taking advantage of the kid-free hours by working on a project or two.

Sitting on the sofa, hands working at a slow, steady pace, takes me back to my childhood.  Watching my grandma quilt each night after dinner.  Always having a project to keep busy.

The past 2 nights I’ve been working on some utensil holders for my desk shelves.  Nothing new invented here, just a knockoff of the Anthropology Colored Coil Pots.  I first saw them on Buzzfeed’s 38 Anthropologie Hacks and stored them away in my mind for future use.

I love the warm fuzzy, yarn look and (obvious) functionality.  And the best part?  They were completely free for me to make (and around 10 bucks if you don’t have all the supplies)!

You’ll need:

Here’s how:

1. Start by cutting the length of your rope.  I estimated a long, 3 foot strand (and ended up using a few of them).  If you’re working with twine, like me, you’ll want to double the thickness.  Secure with a knot at both ends.

2. Cut (about) 10inch strips of yarn.  You’ll need 50, or so, total.

The great thing about this project is that it doesn’t have to have exact measurements.  It’s easy to add more and create seamless transitions with the rope and yarn.  So, let this be a relaxing, easy-going, TV watching project and don’t worry about how long or how many.

3. Place a bead of glue at the knot, adhere one string of yarn to it, then gently wrap the yarn around the rope.

4. Secure with another bead of glue.

5. Alternate yarn colors and continue to coil them around the rope, side by side.

6. Once you’ve reached the end of the rope, wrap the tin can (starting at the bottom and gluing often to hold it in place).

7. The first one I made only covered about half of the can, so I cut another rope and repeated steps 1-6 until the can was fully covered.

Notice how I continued into the inside top lip of the can for a completed look (and hidden can).

Although I love the clean lines of the Anthro design, I like that my beige yarn has dark tones in it. Giving more of a pulled, untidy look.  The colors don’t alternate perfectly, and that’s ok too.  They really add to the look of my shelves as I try to add functional, meaningful pieces to this space.

I’ll be working on other homemade (free) art for the shelves this Thanksgiving weekend.  It’s nice to have the husband home, family in town, and time to create.

Bring on the New Year

While my sister was here for Christmas, we put together a fun New Years Eve table scape.  Bulbs straight from the tree, shiny diy Christmas tree cones, and my white & silver dish-ware.  A little bling and sparkle without spending any money on decorations.  Use what you’ve got, people!

Diy Sunburst Backdrop

My good, good friend is having her baby any day now.  We’re all so excited and can’t wait to find out if it’s a boy or girl!  And while she’s on my mind, I decided what better time, than now, to share her baby shower with you?!  I had so much fun decorating for a gender-neutral shower.  Here’s a look at the sunburst table backdrop I made.

What you’ll need:

  • Tissue paper (multiple colors for dimension)
  • Clear Tape
  • Sewing needle
  • String
  • A good show to watch while you fold (like, catching up on last season of Parenthood!)

Instructions:

1. Fold tissue paper, back and forth, fan-style.

2. With the accordion folds pressed together, fold the tissue paper in half.

3. Open the fold and fan out one side of the sunburst.  Connect the meeting ends with tape.

Psst… You can cut the accordion into smaller pieces (between steps 1 & 2) before fanning.  This gives you different size sunbursts!

4. Connect the opposite ends to create a circle.

5. Thread the needle with string and poke a hole through the center fold of the sunburst, knotting the end so it stays in place.

Starburst = complete!

Now for the decorative backdrop:

I tried a few different methods before finding one that worked.  I couldn’t seem to keep the tissue paper stuck to the wall at first.  Painters tape wasn’t strong enough, which is what I initially used.  Then, I thought I could staple them to a big piece of craft paper.  But I couldn’t figure out how to attach the paper to the wall.  So, I decided to hang them from a wooden dowel.

1. I screwed in two hooks into the ceiling (spaced about 3 feet apart).

2. Tied some twine around both ends of the dowel, and hung them from the hooks.

3. Then, I started with the larger sunbursts and hung them at different lengths.

4. I kept adding and layering with different sizes and colors

I had to adjust some pieces, which turned out to be very easy: just untie the string and move them around! It’s really very simple, but such an eye-catching, artistic piece!

I kept this display up for a goooood while after the shower…  Couldn’t help it– it’s such a pretty (and happy!) wall and it made me smile every time I walked into the kitchen and saw it peeking through the doorway!

Also, I’m really glad the painters tape option didn’t work.  I was able to take them down, without having to rip off any tape, and save for another time!

Come back tomorrow, I’ll be revealing the rest of the shower details!